Drum type across-the-line reversing switch is optional for 230 volts or less.Dream of having a luxury workshop building, a retreat from the stresses of daily. Ated motor controls can be supplied for all 72 h.p. Wiring between the motor and the switch is enclosed in a flexible metal conduit. July/23/2002operator to start or stop the rotation of the lathe spindle from an easy working position. I guess I should build the tailstock next. I'm casting the parts with a zinc-aluminum alloy, instead of the aluminum called for in The Orange Book.Lathe Tool Height Gage Straight-Tooth Sharpening Fixture 9 X 20 Lathe DRO CNC Touch Probe Chisel Fixture for Surface Grinder T-Slotted Tilt-Table Way Carriage Stop Lathe Tailstock Dog Tool Height and Threading Positiner Threading B-Type Insert Tool Holder Ouick In-Out Drilling ActuatorOKay the headstock is complete and at this point I can use the lathe for a few applications.
The end of the tap was square so it was easy to grind to shape.This tap came from a cheap set of taps and dies that I bought from a popular auto parts catalog. The pulley is off center 'cause the temp headstock was too big and I had to let it hang off the left side.This let me test a prototype headstock design for a wood turning lathe I'd like to design and build.I didn't have any lathe tool material to grind my boring bar from as the book recommends so instead I used a piece of hardened steel off a thread cutting tap. It was a little extra work but it was very steady. I decided to take a little extra time and cast a solid temporary headstock which has slides and ways clamps to connect to the ways. Dave Gingery directs the reader to build an adjustable angle iron based assembly. The one in the front shows almost no signs of shrinkage so it's the one I went with.To bore the headstock accurately a temporary headstock assembly is made.
Homemade Metal Lathe Plans Install The Bearing
It is much easier to bore one side at a time then install the bearing for added support. All the metal chips are cleaned away. Okay enough talk, let's bore this bad mutha.Here you can see the headstock just after I finished boring it. I welded this thing together but you can probably cut out a "T" shape and bend the front piece downward to get the configuration shown. I'm glad I didn't buy their worst carbon steel set.Here is the temporary apron that carries the headstock along the ways as it is bored.Rather then drilling and tapping holes in the front of the headstock to attach the temporary apron I simply drilled it's holes to fit the screw locations of the front ways clamp.
I simply kept boring the hole larger and larger 'til it looked close to the bearing size then I tried to slide the bearing in. And I didn't build Gingery's adjustment gauge nor did I ever measure the bore. Check his site out if you haven't already!Here is a closeup of the finished bore, the boring bar and the bit.
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